Ruta de Don Quijote and Ruta de los conquistadores

Easter in Castilla- La Mancha and Extremadura 2015

Toledo was a visit worth. Foto Per S.

My wife and I travelled in the foot steps of both Don Quijote and to the core area of the Spanish conquistadores. I have been in this area several times, but chose a slightly different route, starting in Madrid, down to Toledo, continuing through Parque National de Cabaneros, via Medellin, Merida, Trujillo and last stop at Oropesa. 

I had never been to the Cabaneros earlier, so it was nice to see it; this vast area of unspoilt dehesa with a lot of wildlife and a very good place for Spanish Imperial Eagle. The day after we went to see the village of Medellin- perhaps more known to be the drug capital of Colombia, but in fact in Spain it is the birth place of Hernan Cortes- who went to what is now called

The castle in Medellin. Foto: Per S

Mexico.We then drove through one of the most spectacular landscapes of Spain, the vast plain called La Serena. This is probably Europe's biggest steppe. The soil is not useful for farming, so it is mainly used for cattle and sheep. This means it is excellent for birdlife, with very good numbers of bustards, sandgrouses, larks, Montague's harriers and even a species like Roller. This time of the year La Serena is also covered with low and colourful vegetation. This is a must see when in this part of Spain.

La Serena, Extremadura.

After La Serena, we continued into Merida, especially known for it's roman ruins. However, during Easter this is also a very crowded and noisy city. And the Easter parade here was really something. The river Guadiana flows through here, which makes it quite good for birding, with heronries close to the city center. Anyway, of the cities of Extremadura, I like Caceres and Trujillo better.

From Plaza major, with the Pizzaro statue in Trujillo,
Extremadura.

From Merida we went to Trujillo- the birth place of Francisco Pizzaro- who conquered the Incan empire. This small and old city is a must see in Spain. It is a special atmosphere here, and also noteable is that you constantly will have White Storks, Lesser Kestrels and vultures overhead. Trujillo is also the gate from the south into Monfrague, the perhaps most known area in Extremadura for birdwatching.

Monfrague is situated along the river Tajo, and is surrounded by dehesa. It is very wild-rich and is host to a hugh number of raptors. Griffons, Egyptian and Black Vultures are common here. In addition you will find several pairs of Short-toed, Booted, Golden and Spanish Imperial Eagles. And, the good thing here is that you get very close so some of the cliffs they are breeding.

Griffon Vulture in Monfrague.

We ended our trip in Castilla La Mancha and Extremadura by staying overnight at the lovely parador in Oropesa. The parador that earlier was the house of the nobles, from where Francisco de Toledo came who was crowned as viceroy of Peru. I would really like to recommend this parador. And, from your window you will have very close contct with the Lesser kestrels breeding there.

Lesser Kestrel, Oropesa. Foto: Per S.

First trip abroad for NOF Travel

Extremadura 19- 23. April 2007

Birding the steppes of Extremadura: Photo: Atle Qvale

We founded NOF travel- the travel agency for Norwegian Ornithological Society- in 2006. The first trip abroad went to Extremadura 2007. In fact, the interest was som big that we had to arrange two trips with just some weeks in between!

I was the guide for the first group of 16 persons, travelling to the promised land. We had 131 species in just three full days, including very good views of the Spanish Imperial Eagle.

The first day, we had the route Belen- Trujillo – Santa Marta de Magasca- Torrejon el Rubio. Already in the early morning pass, in the steppe of Belen just outside Trujillo, we had Little and Great Bustard, Great Spotted Cuckoo and Calandra Lark. 

Black Vulture. Phot: John Martin Mjelde

Just north of Trujillo we had our first stop; this gave three species of vultures, Bonelli's Eagle and lots of Spanish Sparrows. In the Santa Marta de Magasca area, we had 7-8 Montague's Harriers in a field and also a flock of 20 Black-bellied Sandgrouses. We ended our day up at Torrejon el Rubio where we stayed over-night. 

First stop next day was at the castle in Monfragüe. In my mind, a very good place for all photographers. If you stay here some hours, you will for sure get very close opportunities for pictures of griffons and other raptors. In front of Salto de Gitano, the famous cliff just beneath the castle, we had several species, including two Spanish Imperials having some mating-behaviour in the air. Magnificent! Later in the day, we had an even better view of an SIE, in full adult plumage.

Alpine Swift. Photo: John Martin Mjelde

Last day we visited one of the only wetlands of Extremadura; the Embalse de Arroyocampo at Almaraz (close to the nuclear plant). This is part of the dam created by water from both Rio Tietar and Tajo. We had several nice experiences like Little Bittern, Black-crowned Night Heron, Purple Heron and several species of warblers. 

The whole trip was a success, until we met the SAS-bureaucracy at Barajas Madrid. After 1,5 hours in a que to check-in, the two last persons were not allowed to check-in because they according to SAS were to late, and besides the plane was full. For us that had entered the plane, it was obvious that it was not full at all. The two remaining had to stay the night over in Madrid due to very bad service by the airliner.

Short trip-report from Western Spain November 2000

 I was in Madrid for a couple of days, and managed to get two days of birding in Extremadura. I spent the first night in Talavera (CM) and started from there early Saturday morning. I then drove up to Monfrague via La Bazagona. On the way I had 2-3 White Storks, which perhaps is not unusal these days, but I've not seen WS so late in Spain before. Then I drove up to Mirador de la Bascula. On the way I had several Black

Spanish Imperial Eagle, Monfrague

Vultures. Suddenly, just some hundred meters before the Mirador, I was aware of a very dark raptor sitting on a pole. And, yes, this was an Spanish Imperial Eagle. I managed to get out of the car, and it did not fly off until I was pretty close. An amazing sight. Further, I stopped frequently before arrival at Salto de Gitano. The usual stuff here, a Peregrine included. Just before I drove off, I had a flock of 6 Alpine Accentors. On the castillo I had a Golden Eagle were flying along the ridge.

From Torrejon el Rubio, I took the "inner way" to Trujillo via Santa Marta de Magasca. Here I saw the only Black-Winged Kite off the trip. Between Santa Marta and Trujillo I had at least two flocks of Black-Bellied Sandgrouse. The most common species in these areas were however Spotless Starling, Corn Bunting, Lapwing and Southern Grey Shrike. I also had several flocks of Rock Sparrow.

I spent the night in Trujillo, and went to visit Caceres the next day. After some hours in this nice town, I drove towards Trujillo, but took a side-road via Santa Marta again. On the way I spotted 6 Pin-Tailed Sandgrouses which landed in a field just in front of me. .However they flew off just after seconds. On this route, and the other steppe- and dehesa areas, Red Kite was the dominating raptor. I also had a few Kestrels and Buzzards and one or two Hen Harriers.

Then the rain started heavily, thus the best thng to do was to drive off towards Madrid.

A bit disappointing that no Cranes were seen. It would have been exciting to see them in their wintering-grounds, since these are so different from their breeding grounds in Norway. However, early November is perhaps to early for this species. At least this year with warm south-easterly winds dominating over Scandinavia from September almost to this day. Further, since I had very limited time, I could not stop frequently to scan the vast open areas for bustards. However, there were that many hunters out there so the bustards might have moved to real inaccessible areas anyway.

What to all these people hunt out there? Is it Red-legged Partridges, rabbits or even bustards?