Tarifa and the Strait of Gibraltar September 2018

Short trip to Tarifa 19th-22nd of September 2018

Short-toed Eagle

We had the annual autumn trip to Tarifa for raptor and stork migration. The weather was unusual hot, with prevailing Levante, meaning warm easterly winds. At times the wind was very strong, which prevented migration for many raptors. In addition the typical haze that comes with the Levante made it impossible to see the Moroccan shore at times. 

The result is that you get a lot of raptors, especially Short-toed Eagles, congregating in the Tarifa area. At one time, I had almost a hundred Short-toeds soaring together without migrating. At times they get very low when coming in from the sea after having failed to cross the strait.

Short-toed Eagles can go very low over the terrain when coming in from
 the sea after an attempt to cross

The other raptor dominating the third week of September is the Booted Eagle. They can be seen everywhere. I counted hundreds every day, however many failed the crossing and came in again so double-counts is a real problem here.

In addition to the two dominating species, there were still numbers of Black Kites and Honey Buzzards, where the juveniles were most numerous among the latter. As for harriers, there were some Marsh Harriers and very few Montague's. Of them, I had one black morph. As for storks, there were only Black Storks migrating, where one flock of about 200 was impressive.

Juvenile Honey Buzzard

So where to locate yourself under the Levante? Well, the Cazalla watch point is where you get best overview, but birds tend to go high. So my advise is to drive down to the CIMA center (Fundacion Migres Center) close to the sea. Here you can have close encounters with the raptors both in autumn and in the spring. If you have westerlies, however, the Algarrobo watch point close to Algeciras is to prefer (horrible "road").

Birdwatching in Tarifa can be really hard...

We usually stay at a hotel when in Tarifa. This time we in stead rented an apartment close to the beach and the city center. This proved to be excellent. I could watch raptors in the air from the terrace and out on the sea shearwaters, gulls and terns could be watched at the same time. Given this, you can also enjoy the convenience in having refreshments nearby!

More pictures 

Huelva and Cadiz Provinces Easter 2018

Faro-Coto Donana-Tarifa round trip

As Faro is close to Coto Donana, we chose that airport rather than Malaga, which we always use when going to Andalucia. You will use about one hour to the Spanish border, and then you can start birding in the Huelva province straight away.

Our first stop was in El Rocio, the heart of Coto Donana. As I have been there several times before, it was quite easy to compare to previous trips. And the first impression was a rather full lagoon, with little birds. Of course, the usual stuff with flamingoes, White Storks, Glossy Ibises and Spoonbills. Of ducks, I noted Shovelers, Gadwalls and Teals.  But, it was few african migrants, meaning no warblers, pratincoles, marsh terns or Bee-eaters and few swallows and swifts. During the trip I spoke with a lot of people and all said the same thing. It is an extraordinary late spring. Some talk about a month late.

Anyway, after a night in El Rocio, we went up to Dehesa de Abajo. This is a really nice area. Perhaps a bit zoo-like, for some people, as the large populations of White Storks and Black kites breed so close and everywhere. But, that is the charm of this site. Further, the lagoon was full with water, and thus promising a good season for water birds. As it was rather windy, most of the water birds gathered on the opposite side, so identification was a bit difficult. We noted Red-crested Pochards rather close.

We then went down to Tarifa and spent three days there. As the whether had been rather poor for several weeks, I was expecting a massive migration over the Strait, since the whether now was improving. But that was not the case. Most probably, the constant north-western winds over a long periode would have halted the migration also well into Africa. Anyway, the raptor migration was going on all days. Staring a bit late, and continuing well into the evening. As the winds were mostly westerly, Punta Carnero was by far the best. Hundreds of Black Kites and Booted Eagles came in there. However also around Tarifa there was visible migration with White Storks, the occasional Black Stork, Booted Eagles, still some Short-toed and some 2-3 Montague's Harriers per days. One day up to 5 Egyptian Vultures also appeared. However, where were the hirundines, swifts and Bee-eaters?

Along Los Lances, I noted the first Northern Wheatear, Yellow Wagtails and Short-toed Larks. Also the usual masses of gulls including Audouins and Caspian Tern.

For the first time we also took a short trip to the rubbish dump at Los Barrios to look at the Black Kites and White Storks. Some say up to 2000 Black Kites have been spotted there at the same time. We had lots, but not that number...

On the detour we went back to Donana and stayed at a four star in Matalascanas. In Laguna Madre, I finally had about 15 Pratincoles, so at least some migrants were on the move. And as always, the Azure-winged Magpies in El Acebuche is worth a visit there.

At the last day, we visited an area I havent seen before, Isla Christina between Huelva and the border. The salt-pans there held the same birds as such areas everywhere; Avocets, Black-winged Stilts, Flamingoes and Slender-billed Gulls. In addition, there were some good flocks of waders, dominated by Dunlins and Common Ringed Plovers.

Some final words: Due to the whether conditions over Europe in March, a lot of rain has fallen in Southern Spain. This is very welcomed. Lagoons and marshes are quite full, and the same goes with the Embalsas. So even though the spring is late, the state of the wetlands of Andalucia gives hope for a good breeding season.

Birding Tarifa and the Cadiz Province, December 2017

Winter break in Southern Spain, 9th to 13th of December, 2018

I had a short break before Christmas, and what better to do than go to the Tarifa area, as so many times before. I stayed at the Hotel Dos Mares, also as many times before. The view from the front line bungalows there are simply stunning.

On Sunday the 10th, I had agreed with Yeray Seminario at Birding the strait to have a half day at La Janda to look for Spanish Imperial Eagle. And it was a success. We had at least three individuals, 2 adults and 1 immature. At the site for one of the adults, we also constantly had an immature Bonneli's Eagle in view. We also had three Black Storks, four Spoonbills, three Black-winged Kites, two Hen Harriers and some Red Kites. In La Janda, also about 500 Cranes, 300 Golden Plovers and quite a lot of other waders were wintering. In the evening, I walked along Los Lances, and had a nice flock of 17 Audouins Gulls.

On Monday, it was quite stormy with rain, so I did some property search in stead. I managed a short visit to Palmones estuary, though. 1 Mediterranean Gull was the most interesting. On Tuesday, it had cleared up and I went up along the Costa de la Luz. First, I visited Barbate. There I had about 20 Stone Curlews and about 10 Bald Ibises. It is not far from the breeding 
site at Barca de la Vejer, so this is natural.I then drove up to Chipiona to look for Little Swifts, which in fact winter there. I had none, but a Caspian Tern and a Booted Eagle was ok. Next stop was the Bonanza Saltpans. Due to the rain the day before, I did not drive far into the area, but I drove enough to have Slender-billed Gulls and Flamingoes. Next stop was Laguna Tarelo. This is a very accessible and rewarding small lake, good in spring, autumn and winter. This time I saw Black-necked Grebe, 10 Shovelers, 15 White-headed Ducks, 40 Black-crowned Night Herons and one Little Swift.

By the way, when driving up to Chipona, I chose to go through El Puerto de Santa Maria. And there, in the middle of the round-about, with Burger King as the nearest neighbour- a replica of La Nina... what a place for this historic and world-famous Columbus ship!

On the way back, I encountered a circling flock of about 150 White Storks between Tarifa and La Janda. It might in fact have been the first arriving flock on "spring migration" as many leave Spain already in July and will start to return already in January- so why not December...?

Last day was a real mess, as I found out that I had a return ticket for 13th of February and not December..., so the best thing to do was to go to Malaga to sort things out.

More photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QX4NkaXn0jJHaOTi2

Raptor watch Strait of Gibraltar September 2017

Raptor and stork migration

Short-toed Eagle.

We had a 5 days holiday from september 21st to sept 26th. Weather was unusually hot, with temperatures close to 30 C, a bit inland. We stayed some nights in La Alcaidesa, some 40 mins drive from Tarifa. The last nights we, as usual, stayed at Dos Mares Hotel, just outside Tarifa.

Due to easterly winds, most of the migration seemed to go at the western end of the strait, thus the watch point at Cazalla was an optimal place. However, in periods, the wind was very strong which meant that many raptors and storks did not migrate, or they returned from the sea. This given, you could have very close encounters as they returned very low over the sea. The new observation center built close to the sea, CIMA,just north of Tarifa was then a strategic place. 

Black Storks

As expected late september, there were four species dominating the air; Short-toed Eagle, Booted Eagle, Black- and White Stork. We had thousands of all these species during these days. Additionally, we had Bonelli's Eagle, Sparrow Hawks and some late Black Kites, Montague's Harriers and Honey Buzzards. I was also lucky enough to get my first sigthing of Rüppels Vulture. 

You can get weekly numbers on the  Programa Migres site here: https://www.facebook.com/FundacionMigres/

There were at times also large numbers of swallows and swifts migrating. We had a couple of really dense flocks of Alpine Swifts and Red-rumped- and Barn Swallows were constantly moving south from early morning.

We usually do some travelling around when we have our annual trips to the Strait in spring and autumn. This time we did not, but mainly stayed close to Tarifa. Of course including mandatory trips to La Janda. Tarifa is reaally and optimal place to combine holiday and birdwatching. Where else can you relax at the seaside and see thousands of raptors and storks overhead? We will be back.

More photos here: 

Video here

Birding in the Cadiz province march-april 2016

Birdwatching from Dos Mares

We had the annual "spring tour" to Southern Andalucia, both too enjoy some migration over El Estrecho, but also to travel to new places in the Cadiz Province. However, we stayed in the Tarifa area, testing out several overnight possibilities, But as always, we concluded with: Hotel Dos Mares, with a sea view, is the real thing.

Coastal area of Tarifa, along the Colado de la Costa

I would not say it was an impressive migration these days. One day, while walking the newly opened route from Tarifa and west towards Algeciras, we had about 80 Booted Eagles coming in quite low over the sea. In addition, the call from Beeaters could be heard all along the route. 

There were also a good variety of breeders or stranded migrants here, like Iberian Chifchaff, Woodchat Shrike and Black-eared Wheatear.

We had several day trips out of Tarifa. One up to the Chipiona-Sanlucar-La Algaida area. Algaida forest is a very nice area. You can drive through, but I would say a walk along the paths is a good alternative, 

Bald Ibis at breeding site

Another trip we had was up to the Ojen Valley. I drove through here some 20 years ago, and it is still doable, but you need to take care. The road can be challenging, so also here a walk along the road could be an alternative. Last, but not least, we drove up to Arcos de la Frontera, one of the Pueblas Blancas, A nice place, but still, I would recommend Vejer de la Frontera. Another reason for going to Vejer, is of course the nearby colony of Bald Ibis. The only breeding place in Europe!

A couple of other things from the trip should also be mentioned. For the first time, we visited the roman ruins at Bolonia. A nice place, worth a visit. From here we also drove up to the Sierra de la Plata, and stayed under the Cueva del Moro for a while to see whether there were any swifts. Both White-rumped and Little Swift have bred here, but it was anyway to early for the first mentioned. Last, but not least, we enjoyed some good Black Kite migration the last day near Punta Carnero, where flocks came in low over the sea, in western gale and drizzle!

Black Kite at Punta Carnero, 4th of April, 2016

More pictures from the trip here: https://goo.gl/photos/8pcuZpvAuYjd6kfD6

Birding in the province of Cadiz early september 2015

A friend of mine and myself had a four day trip for birdwatching in the Cadiz province. We hired car in Malaga and drove to the Tarifa area where we stayed at La Codorniz (The quail), where I have stayed several times before. Tarifa, the southern most tip of Europe, as such is nothing I would recommend for people seeking tranquility or cultural highlights. But the feeling of being close to Africa, the beaches and of course the bird migration makes it a hot spot for me. 

Raptor watching at Cazalla, Tarifa.

In addition to El Estrecho- Gibraltar, we had several day trips to other places in the province. One day we went all the way up to Sanlucar de Barrameda, situated at the southern bank of Rio Guadalquivir-the spine or nerve of Andalucia. We also went up to one of the casas blancas; Vejer de la Frontera. This white village situated on the top of the hill is always a nice place to visit. And, even better, down below at La Barca de Vejer, you now would find a breeding site for the very endangered Bald Ibis!

A trip to the Strait of Gibraltar this time of the year for a birdwatcher will however have one main reason; to enjoy the raptor and stork migration from Europe to Africa. 10ns of thousands of these species, migrating during the day and therefore highly visible, are flying over the about 15 km to Morocco before they then continue deep into the African continent. We had many Honey buzzards, Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Black- and White Storks. 

Estuary of Rio Guadalquivir at Sanlucar.
 Coto Donana on the other side

Some 30 min north of Tarifa, you will find the former wetland of La Janda, where many migrants rest before they take to the wings and fly south. All though not a wetland anymore- it was drained in the 60s, the channels and also some of the rice fields had quite a lot of water this september. Quite extraordinary, taking into account is has not rained for many months. We had one of the key species there, the Black-winged Kite and we also had many Montague's harriers.

Glossy Ibises at La Janda

It satyed very warm when we were there. For birding, it would have been better with colder conditions. We had a real shower though, when we were up in the Alcornocales searching for the White-rumped Swift. We did not find it this time either, but it just inspires to go back again for it and the many other birds to be found in this rather remote and different place of Europe.

If you would like to read more about this area, try the excellent website of Birding the Strait: 

Andalucia september 2013

NOF Travel to Southern Andalucia 18.- 23.september 2013

Raptor watch at the Mirador del Estrecho

I was a guide for a group of 12 norwegian birdwatchers, organised by NOF Travel.  We cooperated with Plegadis v/ Sergio Gonzalez Asian. We had 156 species during the 6 days we spent there. The route was about the following; We arrived at Malaga, drove down to Tarifa and spent 3 days there. We then drove north up to Laguna Medina, Brazo del Este and to La Jantejuela. On day five we visited Zaframagon and Laguna la fuente Piedra. Finally, we had the last night up in the Antequera area, before departing from Malaga again

As for raptor migration, we had a good movement on the 19th both at our stop at the Mirador del Estrecho, between Algeciras and Tarifa, and from Cazalla. About 200 Booted- and 150 Short-toed Eagles. In addition there were Black Storks, Montague's harriers and some Egyptian Vultures. Highlight was however three Spanish Imperial Eagles that we could see from Cazalla. 

Short-toed Eagle migrating towards Africa. Photo: Per S.

On the  20th we visited both the Barbate marshes and La Janda. At Barbate we had a Black-winged Kite, 5 Stone Curlews and several Caspian terns. Later in the day we had many Glossy Ibises at La Janda, the first and only Collared Pratincole of the trip and in fact also a Little Swift.

On the 21st, we started in Laguna Medina and had the usual stuff there, including Purple Swamphen and Red-knobbed Coot. Brazo del Este was however a disappointment, with about 1000 Glossy Ibises as the most remarkable. La Janteuela was however more interesting. At the dams in one of the villages we had in fact another Red-knobbed Coot, and that was the first sighting here ever! Out on the steppes we had 11 Great Bustards, 12 Black-bellied Sandgrouses and another Black-winged Kite. We stayed overnight in Montellano.

Group photo at Laguna de fuenta Piedra.

On the 22nd, we walked through Zaframagon. Lot's of Griffons, another swift with white rump, Blue Rock Thrush and 2 Bonelli's Eagles. Last day we tried the mountain near Antequera, El Torcal. A nice area, but foggy conditions made the number of species quite thin.

Birding Southern Andalucia march 2009

Tarifa and Coto Donana 4th- 7th of March 2009

I arrived at Tarifa in very bad and stormy conditions, and stayed overnight there. At the 5th, I drove up to Laguna Medina and then up to El Rocio. On the 6th I was together with Jose Antonio Sanchez at Discovering Donana, and we covered most of Coto Donana during the day. In the evening I drove back towards Tarifa. On the 7th I did some birding along the strait before returning home via Malaga. A short and compact trip.

Some of the observations made:

Laguna Medina

Due to all the rain, it was completely full of water. Nevertheless, I had some very good observations of about 30 White-headed Ducks, several Red-crested Pochards and Shovelers. And, 5 Black-necked Grebes.

Coto Donana

The Laguna Madre at El Rocio was full of birds and I walked along the Paseo Marismeno. Flamingoes, Glossy Ibises, Spoonbills, Little- and Great White Egrets and hundreds of Shovelers, Pintails, Teals and Wigeons. Of waders, I especially noticed the number of Black-tailed Godwits.

On the 6th. we drove directly out of El Rocio towards The Valverde Visitor Center. On the way we had 3 Great Spotted Cuckoos, Little Owl, many waders like Green Sandpipers, Greenshanks, Lapwings, Little Stints, Dunlins, Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers. Just outside the Visitor Center, we had a Red-knobbed Coot; a lifer for me!

At the center there were many Little Gulls, egrets and herons, Red-Crested Pochards and also a male Hen Harrier. From here we went east along the road towards the rice fields. Not so much here, really, but we visited the nesting area of the Spanish Imperial Eagle, and could see one bird on the nest, very distant. From here, we went up to Dehesa de Abajo. That was a very pleasant experience. Hundreds of White Storks and Black Kites breed here, and most of them seemed to be there already. Further, we had 4 Red-knobbed Coots here, huge numbers of Purple Swamphens and several White-headed Ducks. We returned to El Rocio, and I drove down to Tarifa again in the evening.

Tarifa and the Strait

At the 7th of March, I spent the day driving slowly from Tarifa towards Algeciras to see if there were raptors coming in. It turned out to be a rather good day, all though the weather was rather unstable with quite hard westerly wind, so I focused on the eastern side of the strait. It was still a constant stream of Black Kites coming in from the sea with several flocks of 100+ birds. Further, I ended with about 40 Short-toed Eagles, one Booted Eagle, a Marsh Harrier, one Peregrine, 20 Griffons and in fact a Black Vulture.

Southern Andalucia 26/4-3/5 1997

I took a week of and jumped on a charter-flight to Malaga. Due to late departure, we arrived at Malaga Airport at midnight. I got my hired car though, and drove off towards Gibraltar. I managed to get one- or two hours of sleep before day-break, and then I drove out to the Punta Europa first, and later when raports started I went up to the GOHNS-house.

Most interesting observations this day were: 3 Egyptian Vulture, 2 Osprey, 20 Booted Eagle, 4 Short-toed Eagles, 6 Marsh Harrier, 100 Black Kite, 60 Honey Buzzard, 10 Sparrowhawk, 2-3 Kestrel/Lesser Kestrel, 2 Peregrine. Out on the sea I also had small numbers of Cory’s and Mediterreanean Shearwaters. I aimed of course at the Barbary Partridge, but couldn’t find it, although several helpful birdwatchers tried to guide me. This was of course a disappointment.

Next day I drove west to the Cadiz-province and chose to drive through the Ojen Valley. This was a beautiful valley. Almost no traffic (which is understandable, considering the standard of the road..). I should have spent the whole day here, but drove through at small speed instead. In the air there were of course raptors. Short-toed and several Booted Eagles. The first Griffon Vultures started to appear and I even had a Common Buzzard. In the wooded areas there were Bonneli’s and Melodious Warblers together with several Firecrests. Along the road I had species like Stonechats, Tawny Pipits , Thekla Larks and Cirl Buntings.

When the valley was finished, I headed for the La Janda area. I knew this area more or less was destroyed, but I had hoped for something else then what I experienced: A highly developed area with intensive farming and in addition thousands of tracks which meant that I did not find the remaining natural areas. The only interesting I noticed was the first White Storks, Little Egrets and Calandra Larks.

White-headed Duck at Laguna Medina

I then drove towards Laguna Salada. This is a small lake/pond were it can be possible to find the Crested Coot. However, it was not there but it was a real nice place anyway. A type of Garden of Eden among fields and roads. This part of Spain is really beginning to be “developed…”. In the laguna I had some 20-30 pairs of Black-necked Grebes, a little less of Little Grebes and a pair of Great Crested. Further, there were Pochards, Red-crested Pochards, some Gadwalls and at least one pair of the amazing White-headed Duck.

Then on the move again, towards Laguna Medina. This lake is/was a real hotspot, and was former known to host Crested Coots, Marbled- and White-headed Ducks. However, perhaps due to the drought in the mid-nineties, it had not recovered at the time. There were more or less the same species as in Laguna Salada, however I added Black Terns and Shoveler to the list.

On the 29/4 I went up to Brazo del Este. I had heared about Brazo del Este in advance, but did not expect to find such a good site. Although highly developed by farmers, it still hold lots of good stuff. The main problem is to find it, and I will assume that many have had problems with that. There were lots of White Stork, one or two Squacco Herons, about 10 Black-crowned- and some 8-10 Purple Herons. Further, 20 Little Egrets and about 10 Cattle Egrets. Among waders I had about 20 Kentish Plovers and some Black-winged Stilts. However, what amazed me was the number of Collared Pratincoles. I estimated app. 500. It might have been more or less, but they were really common here. I also found 2 Purple Gallinules and several Little Terns in the canals, and out on the fields I had several Gull-billed Terns. In these fields, Short-toed Larks was the most numerous.

I then drove north, through Sevilla, and turned south again for Matalascanas- and of course Coto Donana (Las Marismas). I found a nice hotel with a fantastic view over the floaded areas made by La Rocina. From my hotel-window I could easily see species like Flamingo, several species of marsh-terns, Spoonbill, Avocets, Black-tailed Godwits, Curlew sandpiper to mention a few.

Hotel Toruno in El Rocio

Azure-winged Magpie

In the evening, we walked the sandy road east of the town. Our aim was to find the Red-necked Nightjar. And we were rewarded; after some time we suddenly heard the unmistakable “katook-katook”, and one bird flew across the path. Later that evening, a nice Barn Owl flew over the table while we had dinner.

At the 30/4  I started around the La Rocina Information Centre. Azure-winged Magpies were common here. New trip-list species here were Kingfisher and Golden Oriole.

Later on the day, we tried to drive north, in order to be able to approach the eastern areas of the park from this direction. This was due to the fact that taking the sandy road east-wards from La Rocio was out of the question. However, we ended up almost stuck in the sand here also, so we more or less drove around in the northern parts without a final objective at all. In these areas we expanded the trip-list with Olivaceous Warbler, Spanish Sparrow (which is not common here at all) and Stone Curlew. Some sort of Glossy Starling was sitting on a bush just beside our car, but I flew away again soon. Since there are several species possible of this African family, we just had to tick

a whole family. I must also mention the number of 

Black Kites in these areas. They are just very, incredible numerous. Several thousands must breed in/near Donana.

At the 1/5 I decided to take the guided trip around the Park. Starting from El Acebuche. I had been warned, so I managed it without getting sick or angry. However, this is not a birdwatching trip! The coach drove as hell along the beaches of the Atlantic coast. Sanderlings and Slender-billed Gulls really had to fly for their life. Well, into the Park interior again, there were several very nice areas, and I also got the impression of the Marismas, the wetlands. There were huge, open wetlands, created by the Guadalquivir. However, as mentioned, we drove through at high speed with just short stops. Well, as mentioned this was not a trip for twitchers, but if you have the possibility, you should take it. I had several new species at the trip-list, in addtion to for instance Slender-billed Gull. Whimbrel, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Oystercatcher, Black-eared Wheatear, Great-spotted Cuckoo and several Red Kites were added.

In the evening, I left the Park and drove to get some mountain-species. I chose the Grazalema-area which seemed rather accessible. Here, I had much “common-stuff” like tits, woodpeckers, warblers etc. just before sunset.

Grazalema

On 2/5 I used the day in La Grazalema and Las Nieves. My main aim was to find the Rock Thrush, which in fact would be new to me. And I was rewarded already early that morning, with a stunning male singing from his outpost. During the day I got species like Black Wheatear, Rock Bunting, Crag Martin and Red-billed Chough. The first Dartford Warbler was also seen here. Near Zahara I had about 100 Griffons soaring.

Well, my time was beginning to be short, and I drove south-east towards the coast and found a reasonable hotel in one of the tourist-machines.

3/5 was departure-day. However,  I managed a small trip down to the mouth of the “Rio” Guadalhorce in Malaga. I got some new species on the trip-list here like Common and Sandwich Tern. Further, I had 2 Audouin’s Gulls and actually 2 Great Skuas! In fact, I also found Greylag Goose and Common Teal here, and hence understood that I was on my way home…