Huelva and Cadiz Provinces Easter 2018

Faro-Coto Donana-Tarifa round trip

As Faro is close to Coto Donana, we chose that airport rather than Malaga, which we always use when going to Andalucia. You will use about one hour to the Spanish border, and then you can start birding in the Huelva province straight away.

Our first stop was in El Rocio, the heart of Coto Donana. As I have been there several times before, it was quite easy to compare to previous trips. And the first impression was a rather full lagoon, with little birds. Of course, the usual stuff with flamingoes, White Storks, Glossy Ibises and Spoonbills. Of ducks, I noted Shovelers, Gadwalls and Teals.  But, it was few african migrants, meaning no warblers, pratincoles, marsh terns or Bee-eaters and few swallows and swifts. During the trip I spoke with a lot of people and all said the same thing. It is an extraordinary late spring. Some talk about a month late.

Anyway, after a night in El Rocio, we went up to Dehesa de Abajo. This is a really nice area. Perhaps a bit zoo-like, for some people, as the large populations of White Storks and Black kites breed so close and everywhere. But, that is the charm of this site. Further, the lagoon was full with water, and thus promising a good season for water birds. As it was rather windy, most of the water birds gathered on the opposite side, so identification was a bit difficult. We noted Red-crested Pochards rather close.

We then went down to Tarifa and spent three days there. As the whether had been rather poor for several weeks, I was expecting a massive migration over the Strait, since the whether now was improving. But that was not the case. Most probably, the constant north-western winds over a long periode would have halted the migration also well into Africa. Anyway, the raptor migration was going on all days. Staring a bit late, and continuing well into the evening. As the winds were mostly westerly, Punta Carnero was by far the best. Hundreds of Black Kites and Booted Eagles came in there. However also around Tarifa there was visible migration with White Storks, the occasional Black Stork, Booted Eagles, still some Short-toed and some 2-3 Montague's Harriers per days. One day up to 5 Egyptian Vultures also appeared. However, where were the hirundines, swifts and Bee-eaters?

Along Los Lances, I noted the first Northern Wheatear, Yellow Wagtails and Short-toed Larks. Also the usual masses of gulls including Audouins and Caspian Tern.

For the first time we also took a short trip to the rubbish dump at Los Barrios to look at the Black Kites and White Storks. Some say up to 2000 Black Kites have been spotted there at the same time. We had lots, but not that number...

On the detour we went back to Donana and stayed at a four star in Matalascanas. In Laguna Madre, I finally had about 15 Pratincoles, so at least some migrants were on the move. And as always, the Azure-winged Magpies in El Acebuche is worth a visit there.

At the last day, we visited an area I havent seen before, Isla Christina between Huelva and the border. The salt-pans there held the same birds as such areas everywhere; Avocets, Black-winged Stilts, Flamingoes and Slender-billed Gulls. In addition, there were some good flocks of waders, dominated by Dunlins and Common Ringed Plovers.

Some final words: Due to the whether conditions over Europe in March, a lot of rain has fallen in Southern Spain. This is very welcomed. Lagoons and marshes are quite full, and the same goes with the Embalsas. So even though the spring is late, the state of the wetlands of Andalucia gives hope for a good breeding season.

Coto Donana december 2016

Coto Donana december 2016

Laguna de las Madres, the mother of marshes, at El Rocio.

I have been to Coto Donana several times, but never in december. Donana has always been famous as a wintering quarter for Northern European birds, so it was about time to see the importance with my own eyes. And I was lucky. The area was teeming with birds. (except for, in fact, Laguna Madre seen on the photo above...).

Little owl

The main reason for seing birds everywhere, was the heavy rain that has been pouring down for the past week. The marshes has not been so wet for 6-7 years. It also meant, however, that several of the roads in the area were not driveable or even completly blocked by masses of water. It was no problem for me. The first day I drove on the dykes of the northern marshes, from Vilmanrique de la Condesa towards Isla Mayor. The second day I was together with José Antonio Sánchez from Discovering Donana, and we were able to go into the closed area between El Rocio and the Jose Antonio Valverde center, through Coto del Rey, Hijonos, La Vera and Lucio del Lobo.

On day one, in the northern marshes, I was struck by the total number of birds, including thousands of gulls, hundreds of white storks and glossy ibises, egrets and herons and large distant flocks of ducks. I was driving along the Brazo de la Torre/Entremuros on the western dyke. However, it was not possible to get over to the rice fields on the other side; the road to Isla Mayor was blocked by water. Due to the high water level, it meant that a lot of birds were sitting along or on the dyke. I had 4-5 Black-winged kites, sitting or flying next to my car as an example.

Floaded track in the Coto del Rey pine forest

Day two- with calm, sunny and warm weather, we drove from El Rocio and east towards the Valverde visitor center. On the way we had Iberian grey shrike, Little bustards, Pin-tailed sandgrouses, Stone curlews and lots of Greylag geese, cranes and white storks. The Valverde center gave little, except for some flamingoes. However, after the coffe break going further east, It got exciting again with five Short-eared owls, a Barn owl and totally 4 Little owls. On the raptor side, there were 20 or more Lesser kestrels, two Hen harriers, a lot of Marsh harriers and a wintering Short-toed Eagle. 

Little egret

To summarize, I can really recommend going to the Donana in december. I have been there three times earlier in the spring, and one in the autumn. But to enjoy it in winter is something special. Remember that the Coto Donana partly was protected after pressure from organisations like WWF, for its importance for wintering birds from Northern Europe. Let us hope it can stay that way. One little contribution can be to be a visitor in the "low season" of december and january. It is worth it!

More photos here

Birding Southern Andalucia march 2009

Tarifa and Coto Donana 4th- 7th of March 2009

I arrived at Tarifa in very bad and stormy conditions, and stayed overnight there. At the 5th, I drove up to Laguna Medina and then up to El Rocio. On the 6th I was together with Jose Antonio Sanchez at Discovering Donana, and we covered most of Coto Donana during the day. In the evening I drove back towards Tarifa. On the 7th I did some birding along the strait before returning home via Malaga. A short and compact trip.

Some of the observations made:

Laguna Medina

Due to all the rain, it was completely full of water. Nevertheless, I had some very good observations of about 30 White-headed Ducks, several Red-crested Pochards and Shovelers. And, 5 Black-necked Grebes.

Coto Donana

The Laguna Madre at El Rocio was full of birds and I walked along the Paseo Marismeno. Flamingoes, Glossy Ibises, Spoonbills, Little- and Great White Egrets and hundreds of Shovelers, Pintails, Teals and Wigeons. Of waders, I especially noticed the number of Black-tailed Godwits.

On the 6th. we drove directly out of El Rocio towards The Valverde Visitor Center. On the way we had 3 Great Spotted Cuckoos, Little Owl, many waders like Green Sandpipers, Greenshanks, Lapwings, Little Stints, Dunlins, Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers. Just outside the Visitor Center, we had a Red-knobbed Coot; a lifer for me!

At the center there were many Little Gulls, egrets and herons, Red-Crested Pochards and also a male Hen Harrier. From here we went east along the road towards the rice fields. Not so much here, really, but we visited the nesting area of the Spanish Imperial Eagle, and could see one bird on the nest, very distant. From here, we went up to Dehesa de Abajo. That was a very pleasant experience. Hundreds of White Storks and Black Kites breed here, and most of them seemed to be there already. Further, we had 4 Red-knobbed Coots here, huge numbers of Purple Swamphens and several White-headed Ducks. We returned to El Rocio, and I drove down to Tarifa again in the evening.

Tarifa and the Strait

At the 7th of March, I spent the day driving slowly from Tarifa towards Algeciras to see if there were raptors coming in. It turned out to be a rather good day, all though the weather was rather unstable with quite hard westerly wind, so I focused on the eastern side of the strait. It was still a constant stream of Black Kites coming in from the sea with several flocks of 100+ birds. Further, I ended with about 40 Short-toed Eagles, one Booted Eagle, a Marsh Harrier, one Peregrine, 20 Griffons and in fact a Black Vulture.

Southern Andalucia 26/4-3/5 1997

I took a week of and jumped on a charter-flight to Malaga. Due to late departure, we arrived at Malaga Airport at midnight. I got my hired car though, and drove off towards Gibraltar. I managed to get one- or two hours of sleep before day-break, and then I drove out to the Punta Europa first, and later when raports started I went up to the GOHNS-house.

Most interesting observations this day were: 3 Egyptian Vulture, 2 Osprey, 20 Booted Eagle, 4 Short-toed Eagles, 6 Marsh Harrier, 100 Black Kite, 60 Honey Buzzard, 10 Sparrowhawk, 2-3 Kestrel/Lesser Kestrel, 2 Peregrine. Out on the sea I also had small numbers of Cory’s and Mediterreanean Shearwaters. I aimed of course at the Barbary Partridge, but couldn’t find it, although several helpful birdwatchers tried to guide me. This was of course a disappointment.

Next day I drove west to the Cadiz-province and chose to drive through the Ojen Valley. This was a beautiful valley. Almost no traffic (which is understandable, considering the standard of the road..). I should have spent the whole day here, but drove through at small speed instead. In the air there were of course raptors. Short-toed and several Booted Eagles. The first Griffon Vultures started to appear and I even had a Common Buzzard. In the wooded areas there were Bonneli’s and Melodious Warblers together with several Firecrests. Along the road I had species like Stonechats, Tawny Pipits , Thekla Larks and Cirl Buntings.

When the valley was finished, I headed for the La Janda area. I knew this area more or less was destroyed, but I had hoped for something else then what I experienced: A highly developed area with intensive farming and in addition thousands of tracks which meant that I did not find the remaining natural areas. The only interesting I noticed was the first White Storks, Little Egrets and Calandra Larks.

White-headed Duck at Laguna Medina

I then drove towards Laguna Salada. This is a small lake/pond were it can be possible to find the Crested Coot. However, it was not there but it was a real nice place anyway. A type of Garden of Eden among fields and roads. This part of Spain is really beginning to be “developed…”. In the laguna I had some 20-30 pairs of Black-necked Grebes, a little less of Little Grebes and a pair of Great Crested. Further, there were Pochards, Red-crested Pochards, some Gadwalls and at least one pair of the amazing White-headed Duck.

Then on the move again, towards Laguna Medina. This lake is/was a real hotspot, and was former known to host Crested Coots, Marbled- and White-headed Ducks. However, perhaps due to the drought in the mid-nineties, it had not recovered at the time. There were more or less the same species as in Laguna Salada, however I added Black Terns and Shoveler to the list.

On the 29/4 I went up to Brazo del Este. I had heared about Brazo del Este in advance, but did not expect to find such a good site. Although highly developed by farmers, it still hold lots of good stuff. The main problem is to find it, and I will assume that many have had problems with that. There were lots of White Stork, one or two Squacco Herons, about 10 Black-crowned- and some 8-10 Purple Herons. Further, 20 Little Egrets and about 10 Cattle Egrets. Among waders I had about 20 Kentish Plovers and some Black-winged Stilts. However, what amazed me was the number of Collared Pratincoles. I estimated app. 500. It might have been more or less, but they were really common here. I also found 2 Purple Gallinules and several Little Terns in the canals, and out on the fields I had several Gull-billed Terns. In these fields, Short-toed Larks was the most numerous.

I then drove north, through Sevilla, and turned south again for Matalascanas- and of course Coto Donana (Las Marismas). I found a nice hotel with a fantastic view over the floaded areas made by La Rocina. From my hotel-window I could easily see species like Flamingo, several species of marsh-terns, Spoonbill, Avocets, Black-tailed Godwits, Curlew sandpiper to mention a few.

Hotel Toruno in El Rocio

Azure-winged Magpie

In the evening, we walked the sandy road east of the town. Our aim was to find the Red-necked Nightjar. And we were rewarded; after some time we suddenly heard the unmistakable “katook-katook”, and one bird flew across the path. Later that evening, a nice Barn Owl flew over the table while we had dinner.

At the 30/4  I started around the La Rocina Information Centre. Azure-winged Magpies were common here. New trip-list species here were Kingfisher and Golden Oriole.

Later on the day, we tried to drive north, in order to be able to approach the eastern areas of the park from this direction. This was due to the fact that taking the sandy road east-wards from La Rocio was out of the question. However, we ended up almost stuck in the sand here also, so we more or less drove around in the northern parts without a final objective at all. In these areas we expanded the trip-list with Olivaceous Warbler, Spanish Sparrow (which is not common here at all) and Stone Curlew. Some sort of Glossy Starling was sitting on a bush just beside our car, but I flew away again soon. Since there are several species possible of this African family, we just had to tick

a whole family. I must also mention the number of 

Black Kites in these areas. They are just very, incredible numerous. Several thousands must breed in/near Donana.

At the 1/5 I decided to take the guided trip around the Park. Starting from El Acebuche. I had been warned, so I managed it without getting sick or angry. However, this is not a birdwatching trip! The coach drove as hell along the beaches of the Atlantic coast. Sanderlings and Slender-billed Gulls really had to fly for their life. Well, into the Park interior again, there were several very nice areas, and I also got the impression of the Marismas, the wetlands. There were huge, open wetlands, created by the Guadalquivir. However, as mentioned, we drove through at high speed with just short stops. Well, as mentioned this was not a trip for twitchers, but if you have the possibility, you should take it. I had several new species at the trip-list, in addtion to for instance Slender-billed Gull. Whimbrel, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Oystercatcher, Black-eared Wheatear, Great-spotted Cuckoo and several Red Kites were added.

In the evening, I left the Park and drove to get some mountain-species. I chose the Grazalema-area which seemed rather accessible. Here, I had much “common-stuff” like tits, woodpeckers, warblers etc. just before sunset.

Grazalema

On 2/5 I used the day in La Grazalema and Las Nieves. My main aim was to find the Rock Thrush, which in fact would be new to me. And I was rewarded already early that morning, with a stunning male singing from his outpost. During the day I got species like Black Wheatear, Rock Bunting, Crag Martin and Red-billed Chough. The first Dartford Warbler was also seen here. Near Zahara I had about 100 Griffons soaring.

Well, my time was beginning to be short, and I drove south-east towards the coast and found a reasonable hotel in one of the tourist-machines.

3/5 was departure-day. However,  I managed a small trip down to the mouth of the “Rio” Guadalhorce in Malaga. I got some new species on the trip-list here like Common and Sandwich Tern. Further, I had 2 Audouin’s Gulls and actually 2 Great Skuas! In fact, I also found Greylag Goose and Common Teal here, and hence understood that I was on my way home…