Birding Aragon steppees and the Pyrenees

Aragon and the Pyrenees in May 2015

El Planeron on the steppes of Aragon. Foto: Odd Kindberg.

I was acting as a guide for a group of 12 Norwegians travelling with NOF Travel to the aragonese plains and the Pyrenees. We cooperated with Josele Saiz at Boletas Birwdwatching Centre. Josele is highly recommended if you need professional guiding in this part of Spain.

A good point of departure when going to Aragon and the high-Pyrenees is Barcelona. I have taken this route several times. By doing that, you can visit the steppes of Aragon, you can see Zaragoza and then head north for Los Pirineos. And, of course stay a day or two in Barcelona- and if you are very keen drive down to the Ebro Delta as well.

The aragonese part of the Pyrenees, perhaps together with the eastern part of Navarra, is the most interesting as for birding in the mountain range. On this tour we concentrated on steppe birding in the Belchite- El Planeron area, birding in the lower Pyrenees and finally up in the higher areas for some of the key species there. On the steppes, we got the key species like Dupont's Lark, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse and even a Great Bustard- one of the few remaining here.

Yes, we found the Wallcreeper! Foto: Odd Kindberg 

In the Pyrenees, we stayed in the small town of Siresa, an excellent choice. It is situated in the Hecho Valley, where you can drive all the way up to Selva de Oza and also easy access up to Gabardito. As one of the star birds of the Pyrenees- the Wallcreeper no more breeds at Boca del Infierno, Gabardito is the most reliable place.

To get the one of the other star-birds of the Pyrenees, we went up the Roncal Valley, into the region of Navarra. Still into May, there were patches of snow here. We drove all the awy up to the French border, and started walking there. In this area, we had two other highlights; close contact with both Lammergeier and Alpine Accentor. The lammergeier had a marvellous show, dropping a bone to crush it on the rocks below. It was doing so several times on close range. Wow, what a show!

The lammergeier is a scavenger, a vulture, that you can find both in Asia and in Africa. But in Europe, however, they have been on the brink of extinction for decades. In Spain, they have been surviving in the Pyrenees, and they have also been re-introduced to other parts of Spain, like up in the Picos de Europa and also in Cazorla in the north-eastern corner of Andalucia. It is for sure one of the most charismatic species to be found, Huge, with up to 2,5 meter wing span, living in remote areas, often gliding along the ridges in the mountains, continously looking for dead animals or remains of it. It is the only bird that specializes in feeding on marrow, which it get's through dropping bones from the air on to rocks below.

You can see more pictures here:

The Pyrenees; Ordesa and Benasque

Ordesa and Benasque, june 2009

After an hour steep climbing in the forest, it is a relief
to get to the viewpoint of Valle de Ordesa

The national Park of Ordesa and Monte Perdido is probably the most spectacular part of the Pyrenees, situated around the highest peaks of the range in the region of Aragon. On this trip we had 2 days in Ordesa and one day in the Benasque-area.

Our point of departure was Torla, which I have used before for this area. From Torla, it is just 10 min drive to the entrance of the park, where you can choose different paths/senderos. We chose the route Faja de Pelay- a walk of about 7 hours. The first part of about an hour, is steep upwards in dense woodland. Then, it opens up and suddenly you are at near 2000 meter with a fantastic view over the canyon, with about 6-700 meter down to the valley bottom. The Ordesa valley is really Europe's Grand Canyon.

Cola de Caballo and Tres Sorores

You then follow the well marked path going along the southern side of the canyon, ending about where the waterfalls- Cola de Caballo- comes down from the Tres Sorores and Monte Perdido. These peaks are above 3.300 meters.

The detour is an easy walk in the valley bottom, where you end up again at the car park outside Torla. I would really recommend this route, you will not be disappointed. Especially if the weather is on your side. There was not very much birdlife when we were there, but last time I had both Lammergeier and Wallcreeper here. One species you will have for sure, is Citril Finch which was the most common along the path.

La Renclusa, a starting point for climbing the highest peaks

We then drove east towards Benasque, another hot spot of the high Pyrenees. We drove up to La Besurta and then we walked the short route up to La Renclusa- a mountain refuge which is a starting point if you would like to climb the highest peak of the Pyrenees, Pico Aneto. The natural park here is called Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta. We also drove the road over to the skiing resort of Cerler- a steep and curvy road however. From here you can take the ski-lift if it is open and if you are lucky, you might get Snow Finch at the top.

After the days in the high-Pyrenees, we drove down to the Costa Brava, having a relaxing time in Sitges, some 30 min south of El Prat airport, Barcelona.

More pictures here

A short trip-report from my visit to Northern – Spain 13. th- 18 th. May 2000

Itinerary

 14/5: Charter-trip Oslo-Alicante. Left my wife and kids by my parents. Took the night-train from Alicante to Zaragoza. 15/5: Hired a car in Zaragoza. Drove down to the steppe-reserve of Planeron. In the afternoon drove up to Riglos (de Mallos). Further up to San Juan de la Pena and to Jaca. Stayed in a hotel in Jaca. 16/5: Visit to the Citadell in Jaca. Then up through the Hecho-Valley and up to Gabardito. In the evening I drove to Ordesa and stayed overnight in Torla. 17/5: Walk in Parque Nacional de Ordesa. Then started the long journey towards Madrid.  Stayed overnight at a motel not far from Guadalajara. 18/5: Visit to a agricultural area near Alcala de Henares. Left the car at Barajas Airport, and took the train down to Alicante.

15/5 Planeron, Riglos de Mallos, San Juan de la Pena, Jaca

El Planeron in the Ebro Valley of Aragaon

At Planeron, I found the place overlooking the area, mentioned in Croziers book. Here, there were signs and information on the wildife. However, I did not find the reservoirs where the sandgrouses should come in to drink. Later, though, I drove back towards Belchite and took a farm-track which passed by some overgrown pools where I saw some Black-winged stilts. Perhaps this was the place?

Mallos de Riglos

I had around 10 Black-bellied Sandgrouses but no Pin-tailed. I saw all the larks in the area, including Dupont’s. (lots of Calandra’s , Lesser short-toed- and Short-toed) I could see 2-3 of the Dupont’s larks, and a few also sung in the middle of the day! In Norway this species is called ”Nightlark”, but this cannot be the whole truth! I also had a Stone Curlew, some Quails and some Spectacled Warblers.

Planeron was a very interesting area, and I would like to revisit. Perhaps a bit earlier in the morning!

I drove north through Huesca, on the way to Jaca. I stopped near Riglos and watched the huge cliffs. One Short-toed Eagle flew over and a couple of Booted Eagles also. Lots of Griffons were soaring, together with app. 10 Black Kites and 5 Red Kites. It was here I had the only Orphean Warblers on the trip.

Rock Sparrow

I drove up to San Juan de la Pena to the Monastery. I walked through the wood and got a stunning view over the Pyrenees. From here I saw my first Lammergeier- but at a great distance. Here, I also had the only Honey Buzzard. Smaller birds included Firecrest.

16/5 Jaca, Hecho Valley, Ordesa

Before leaving Jaca, I visited the Citadell. This place is supposed to be a good site for Rock Sparrow- and it is. Perhaps the most common species around the stone walls!

Ordesa National Park, seen from Torla

I drove up through the lovely Hecho Valley. Lots of kites in these areas! First stop the famous Boca del Infierno- the tunnel. My aim was to get the Wallcreepers here. Just after 15 minutes, a pair suddenly arrived. I great experience! (here I also found a Wild Boar in the middle of the road). I then turned back and headed for the Gabardito cross-country resort. Here again, lots of Griffons. One or two Lammergeiers also, and a pair of Egyptian Vultures. Gabardito is mentioned in some trip-reports to be a reliable site for Citril Finch. However, they were not here. I walked up from Gabardito, and reached the alpine meadows. Water pipits, and a Black Wheatear were the best on the ”small front”. However, I found the Choughs and Alpine Choughs most interesting. Not easy to separate in distance, but they have very different sounds. On one of the slopes I also saw some Spanish Ibex.

I then returned through Jaca and headed for Ordesa. Just before Jaca, I had app. 150 Griffons soaring together. The Griffon Vulture seems to be really numerous in this area. Perhaps the highest density in Spain?

I found a hotel in Torla, and took a quick evening trip into Ordesa. I had a Sparrowhawk, a Peregrine and a Golden Eagle from the Information Centre. In this area, I also saw lots of species which are more common further north in Europe, but have their stronghold in Spain here. (tits, finches, dunnocks, thrushes, pigeons..)

17/5  Ordesa, (and drive southwards)

A bit rainy this day. I climbed the steep Senda de las Cazadores on the right side of the river. On the way up, I found a dead Izard/Chamois. I also had two Wallcreepers on the way up. However, I did not make it all the way up. Because of the rain, I turned back to Torla. It then cleared again, and from my hotel I got the best views of Lammergeier on the trip. Two soaring together not far from the hotel, with dense flocks of Choughs/Alpine Choughs just below. I also heard a Black Woodpecker somewhere.

Alpine Chough

I then drove back, and drove up through the Tena Valley and reached the high ground around the French border. A Lammergeier here too and Alpine Choughs pretty close. I also had Blue Rock Thrush and Black Redstarts are common here. Just around the border area I also had Marmots and a flock of Izards.

I drove back and visited the lovely Panticosa ”village”. A Lammergeier , a Black Wheatear, and very healthy waters... Then, the main trip was over, and I headed back. The car was to be delivered at Barrajas, Madrid, so I had lots of miles in front of me.

18/5 In the morning, I visited the area near Alcala de Henares, mentioned in de Juanas book. This area is supposed to hold bustards and sandgrouses. I first visited the church in the village of Meco, where there still are some Lesser Kestrels. Then I drove along a farm track north of the village. I had a lovely male Montague’s Harrier and a pair of Hen Harriers. The latter I have never seen in Spain before. But, do these areas have bustards? If I was on the right track, I cannot see how for instance Great Bustard can survive in such an agricultural area.

I left the car on the airport, and took the Talgo train down to Alicante.