Andalucia has everything

Andalucia is the southern most region of Spain, and one of the regions I have been visiting most. But it is a big region, divided into 8 provinces, so you really need time to do Andalucia properly. Andalucia has really as mentioned above, everything; the coast (Costa del Sol, Costa de la Luz), the mountains (Sierra Nevada, Grazalema, Ronda, Cazorla), the cities like Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada. It gives a unique possibility to combine nature, culture and relaxation. It is therefore not possible to give a just presentation on a blog. Let me then just pick a few areas that I enjoy very much and with a birdwatchingperspective.

Coto Donana

Center of El Rocio. Foto: Per S

El Rocio is the centre of Donana, and where most people stay when here. This is a spectacular village with sandy roads, white houses and really giving a "mexican" feeling. If a birdwatcher, see if you can get a hotel with a with over the lagun Charco de la Boca. And, check the calendar before you go to avoid any fiesta in the village.

If you would like to enjoy Coto Donana, you should primarily hire a guide. You need local knowledge and a four-wheel drive. If you are an ordinary tourist, you could just buy into any of the four-hour tours going from El Acebuche. But if a birdwatcher or a person who would like to see the area properly,stay away from that.

Typical Donana landscape. Foto: Per S

When should you go to Donana? Well, I have been here three times; march, april and may. In early march you will still have many winter residents in combination with early summer migrants. In april and may, the wintering birds are gone, but you have most of the breeding species there, in combintion with birds on migration. I think you can go almost at every time and enjoy it, but the drought and summer heat going on long into october should probably be avoided. And, finally, there is a huge difference whether there is water or not. I have seen both drought and floodings here, When really flooded, birds are spread and access to the park proper is difficult. If drought, waterbirds are gone. So check this in advance.

Red-knobbed Coot, Coto Donana. Foto: Per S.

So what species to focus on? Again, it depends on the season. What most people would like to see is of course the Spanish Imperial Eagle. I have not had it here, so I would say that it might be easier in Extremadura. If you have a guide however, they always know about some nests, so they would bring you in the hunting area of the birds. Another star of the area is the Red-knobbed Coot. At least for some years ago, this was the only place on the European continent you could have it, but nowadays this species is re-introduced in many wetlands in Spain.

Dehesa de Abajo in the outskirts of Donana is a place you should go; there are white stork- and black kite colonies here. Foto: Per S.

El Rocio with the Chrarco in front. One of my favourite places in Spain!. Foto: Per S.

Birding in the province of Cadiz early september 2015

A friend of mine and myself had a four day trip for birdwatching in the Cadiz province. We hired car in Malaga and drove to the Tarifa area where we stayed at La Codorniz (The quail), where I have stayed several times before. Tarifa, the southern most tip of Europe, as such is nothing I would recommend for people seeking tranquility or cultural highlights. But the feeling of being close to Africa, the beaches and of course the bird migration makes it a hot spot for me. 

Raptor watching at Cazalla, Tarifa.

In addition to El Estrecho- Gibraltar, we had several day trips to other places in the province. One day we went all the way up to Sanlucar de Barrameda, situated at the southern bank of Rio Guadalquivir-the spine or nerve of Andalucia. We also went up to one of the casas blancas; Vejer de la Frontera. This white village situated on the top of the hill is always a nice place to visit. And, even better, down below at La Barca de Vejer, you now would find a breeding site for the very endangered Bald Ibis!

A trip to the Strait of Gibraltar this time of the year for a birdwatcher will however have one main reason; to enjoy the raptor and stork migration from Europe to Africa. 10ns of thousands of these species, migrating during the day and therefore highly visible, are flying over the about 15 km to Morocco before they then continue deep into the African continent. We had many Honey buzzards, Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Black- and White Storks. 

Estuary of Rio Guadalquivir at Sanlucar.
 Coto Donana on the other side

Some 30 min north of Tarifa, you will find the former wetland of La Janda, where many migrants rest before they take to the wings and fly south. All though not a wetland anymore- it was drained in the 60s, the channels and also some of the rice fields had quite a lot of water this september. Quite extraordinary, taking into account is has not rained for many months. We had one of the key species there, the Black-winged Kite and we also had many Montague's harriers.

Glossy Ibises at La Janda

It satyed very warm when we were there. For birding, it would have been better with colder conditions. We had a real shower though, when we were up in the Alcornocales searching for the White-rumped Swift. We did not find it this time either, but it just inspires to go back again for it and the many other birds to be found in this rather remote and different place of Europe.

If you would like to read more about this area, try the excellent website of Birding the Strait: 

Birding Aragon steppees and the Pyrenees

Aragon and the Pyrenees in May 2015

El Planeron on the steppes of Aragon. Foto: Odd Kindberg.

I was acting as a guide for a group of 12 Norwegians travelling with NOF Travel to the aragonese plains and the Pyrenees. We cooperated with Josele Saiz at Boletas Birwdwatching Centre. Josele is highly recommended if you need professional guiding in this part of Spain.

A good point of departure when going to Aragon and the high-Pyrenees is Barcelona. I have taken this route several times. By doing that, you can visit the steppes of Aragon, you can see Zaragoza and then head north for Los Pirineos. And, of course stay a day or two in Barcelona- and if you are very keen drive down to the Ebro Delta as well.

The aragonese part of the Pyrenees, perhaps together with the eastern part of Navarra, is the most interesting as for birding in the mountain range. On this tour we concentrated on steppe birding in the Belchite- El Planeron area, birding in the lower Pyrenees and finally up in the higher areas for some of the key species there. On the steppes, we got the key species like Dupont's Lark, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse and even a Great Bustard- one of the few remaining here.

Yes, we found the Wallcreeper! Foto: Odd Kindberg 

In the Pyrenees, we stayed in the small town of Siresa, an excellent choice. It is situated in the Hecho Valley, where you can drive all the way up to Selva de Oza and also easy access up to Gabardito. As one of the star birds of the Pyrenees- the Wallcreeper no more breeds at Boca del Infierno, Gabardito is the most reliable place.

To get the one of the other star-birds of the Pyrenees, we went up the Roncal Valley, into the region of Navarra. Still into May, there were patches of snow here. We drove all the awy up to the French border, and started walking there. In this area, we had two other highlights; close contact with both Lammergeier and Alpine Accentor. The lammergeier had a marvellous show, dropping a bone to crush it on the rocks below. It was doing so several times on close range. Wow, what a show!

The lammergeier is a scavenger, a vulture, that you can find both in Asia and in Africa. But in Europe, however, they have been on the brink of extinction for decades. In Spain, they have been surviving in the Pyrenees, and they have also been re-introduced to other parts of Spain, like up in the Picos de Europa and also in Cazorla in the north-eastern corner of Andalucia. It is for sure one of the most charismatic species to be found, Huge, with up to 2,5 meter wing span, living in remote areas, often gliding along the ridges in the mountains, continously looking for dead animals or remains of it. It is the only bird that specializes in feeding on marrow, which it get's through dropping bones from the air on to rocks below.

You can see more pictures here: